Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Algae are a weed known to man and live in waterways, swamps and canals. Green algae are pesky for the many industries, such as Fisheries and related companies, simply because the massive amount of oxygen it will consume. But for the most part, Asian countries which are indigenous to algae, might have found an answer in the textile.
China has many factories on the drawing board for the different varieties of algae. These algae are used for a good substitute for fertilizers, and pigments. But the fashion industry will benefit most. Korea, for example is utilizing green algae for silk protein fibers protection. The silk is Larvae is also protein, however the chemical H3 (Helio) makeup is less dense for wrapping, thus becoming weaker. However, with the added algae in micro-form, the silk becomes ten times stronger, which is especially helpful in the Ahimsa silk manufacturing process.
Additionally, Thailand will be using the brown algae, currently being used in shaving creams, cosmetics, and dairy products as a thickening agent. Thailand has different plans for Brown algae. This Asian country will be extracting many properties for color pigmentation and dying of fabrics to replace chemicals now used. An alga converts nitrogen into ammonia which in turn is used for dyes in many materials. This will naturally dye fabric in use today. Although Thailand has a slight lead in this area, China having the largest algae population in the world happens to be at the right place at the right time for this project.
Finally, for nations and corporate competition to have an edge in today’s economic environment, the must keep the technological factor in check as well. The west is counting on these developing countries to participate in many of the source to consumer market endeavors. One thing is for sure retail is counting on them.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Friday, November 25, 2011
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some types of which can be woven and sewn into textiles. The most-known form of silk is cured from cocoons produced by the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx modi emerging from captivity (sericulture). The shine appearance in which silk is known comes from the fibers prism-like structure which allows silk material to refract incoming light at multiple positions.
"Wild silks" are produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm and may be artificially cultivated. A variety of silks have been known and used in China, Asia, and Europe since the begining of time, but the scale of production was much smaller than that of cultivated silks. They differ from the domesticated varieties in feel and color, and cocoons gathered in the wild usually have been damaged by the emerging moth just before the cocoons are collected, so the silk thread that makes up the cocoon has been ripped into shorter lengths. Commercially silkworm pupae are terminated by submerging them in boiling water before the adult moths emerge, or by piercing them with a needle, allowing the whole cocoon to be unravelled as one thread in succession. This allows a much stronger cloth to be woven from the silk. Wild silks also can be more difficult to dye than silk from the cultivated worms of silk origin.
There is evidence that small quantities of wild silk were being manufactured in the Mediterranean area and the Middle East by the time the stringent, cultivated silk from China began to be imported.
How is silk manufactured?
Silk production is a tedious and lengthy process that requires continuous supervising of the smallest of the details. To ensure the quality of silk, it is important to consider two conditions:
-Stop the moth from hatching.
-Setting the nutritional diet, on which the silkworms should eat.
The hatching of the eggs occurs at 75 degrees or so; the young silk worms feed heavily on the mulberry leaves and becomes almost 9,000 times their weight within 30 days. This feeding happens unless they have built up enough stamina to enter the ‘cocoon stage’. During this cycle, a jam like substance is formed in their silk glands which stiffen on contact with oxygen. These cocoons look like white oval puffs, kind of like cotton balls. After seven to ten days, these silk worms are terminated, by steaming or baking. When these cocoons are submerged into hot water, they become loose and open out into filaments which are string-like and unwound into a spool. Each strand is between 650 and 950 meters long. To get one silk thread, approximately six to eight filaments are twisted together; these silk threads are then weaved into cloth or used for embroidery work.
Types of silk fabrics
Charmeuse – This silk type is one of the most commonly recognized fabrics that are available in the marketplace today. It is typically characterized by its lustrous shine and sumptuous feel and is primarily used for the manufacture of shirts, dresses, eveningwear, nightgowns, lingerie, and gently shaped tops
Crepe de Chine or CDC – This type of silk has a ‘matte’ surface and a ‘pebbled’ texture; besides it is also very durable and does not wrinkle. Due to its lighter weight, it is a hot favorite among the designers and is primarily used for fashionable and sophisticated shirts, dresses, suits and evening wear. Great for those long dance night outings.
Filament silk - Made of single strands that vary in length, this agile knit fabric maximizes silk’s amazing ability to insulate your body and stomp out moisture. It is most known for its light in weight yet highly strong status. Its versatile and luxurious feel makes it ideal for the chic and opulent lingerie’s slips, and evening wraps. The natural spandexy quality of this fabric ensures all day comfort and is wonderful for beneath casual & business fashion.
Georgette – Georgette reminds one of crepe de Chine. It is soft and lustrous that falls easily and into soft ripples. It has a grainy texture and is utilized for the production of dresses, skirts, blouses, tops and evening wear.
Habutai – “Habutai”, defined as ‘soft and falling easily’ in Japanese was first used for the manufacture of Kimonos. It is light and soft, and lustrous with a very smooth drape and surface and is used for making coats, shirts, lingerie, suits, quilts, jacket insides, dresses and dresswear.
Monday, November 14, 2011
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Nylon fabric is a wonderful material however it attracts oil so remove the oil stain quickly once it has been
stained; do not use an iron or excessive heat from a dryer as it will hamper your efforts; Use warm water and a pre-treater with strong detergent. A dash of baking soda will also help; Dry nylon with the permanent press cycle on your dryer. Do not over dry the item. Additionally, let the cloth hang dry to let the wrinkles fall out.
Spirits: Nylon - If you are removing red wine from your nylon make sure you blot it first with a cloth. Continue quickly with warm water a small amount of vinegar and detergent for 15 minutes to 20 minutes. After that, rub the material against itself. If you still see wine there, let the material dry then add rubbing alcohol and re wash. Of course apply the alcohol to a cloth then to the stained garment.
Silk - Alcohol stains demand immediate attention. Fresh alcohol stains vanish if sponged several times with
warm water. If not taken care of immediately, the alcohol stain will turn brown. If your stain has turned brown, dampen it and rub glycerin into it. After a half hour, rinse it off with warm water. For more stubborn alcohol stains, sponge the area with a solution of equal parts denatured alcohol and ammonia. Do not forget to rinse the area thoroughly in warm water when you're finished.
Gum/Wax: Most fabrics - Scrape off the rest with a dullish scraper and to finish the job use a damp cloth in cleaning solvent. Freeze the garment in the freezer in a towel or rub the item with an ice cubes until it’s hard
Rust: Most fabrics - For any type of rust oxalic acid will work. 1 teaspoon mixed with water
Pet Food: Nylon- Purchase an alkaline pre treater solution.
Blood: Most Fabrics – First rinse out with cold water and then wash as usual, if the stain still persist then use hydrogen peroxide (only on white material)
Cotton - With blood you must soak the stain for an hour and a half in cold water or until it turns a brownish color. After that apply a pre stain treater and use a teaspoon of baking soda. If any residual stains remain use ammonia and water 30-1 solution. And of course as an alternate method use peroxide food grade 33% in a water solution 60-1
Ink: Most Fabrics – 2 words Hairspray and nail polish remover. Of course wash as normal after wards.
Grease: Most Fabrics – To remove food and grease stains, apply a cleaning solvent. If the stain persists, dilute a
little white vinegar in water and apply it to the stain to remove any leftover color. Finish it with dish washing liquid and rub again it. Wash as normal.
Makeup: Most Fabrics – To remove makeup and lipstick, gently dab the stain using liquid diluted in dishwashing liquid and water. If the stain fades but does not vanish altogether, continue to gently touch it. When the stain disappears, wash the garment with detergent and distilled water. For lipstick removal, use an oil-based cleaning solvent and let it dry. After gently scraping off the residue, wash the stain off with liquid detergent and a little cold distilled water and a smidgeon of baking soda.
Silk - Most makeup stains can be removed in the washing machine, but if you do not want to wash the
material, pre-treat the stained area with a spot stain remover and then spray some dry-cleaning liquid on it. If any stain still remains, wipe it with a mixture of denatured alcohol and home based ammonia.
Tea/coffee: Most Fabrics – The trick to this is very fast clean-up. Soak it in water and bleach for an hour. Next, wash the garment using detergent and peroxide. Then re-wash as normal.
Silk - To remove marks resulting from tea and coffee spills, sponge them with lukewarm water. Next, gently
rub a little glycerin into the spot, and let it absorb for at an hour. Rinse the area with Luke warm water. If an oily mark still remains, dange it away with dry-cleaning fluid.
Chocolate: Most Fabrics – Chocolate and cocoa stain - let it soak in water for three hours, and then wash it in hot
water with a strong detergent. If anything is left use hydrogen peroxide 7% and rewash.
Silk - If you've found chocolate on your gorgeous silk or Ahimsa silk garb, first scrape off most of it with a
smooth edge. Softly brush the area with warm, soapy water and drag an end piece of soap across the stain.
If a brown mark remains, sponge it with a solution of equal parts denatured alcohol and household ammonia,
then thoroughly rinse it with warm water. A less stubborn chocolate stain can be removed by spraying it with
dry-cleaning fluids and hydrogen peroxide. Use sodium Meta silicate as a last resort.
Milk: Most Fabrics – Milk and ice cream stain - soak it in warm water for 3 hours. Use a dry organic cleaning
solvent with 1 tablespoon baking soda. Then Re wash on gentle cycle.
Perfume: Silk - Alcohol content in the perfume can destroy the color and leave round spots on your clothing or fabric. To fix this problem, apply a few drops of denatured alcohol on a cheesecloth pad and sponge the area from the outside in. This unique technique will restore the shade and the stain will eventually dissipate.
Deodorant: Silk – Antiperspirants can cause ugly marks on your silk clothes. In order to get rid of stains from antiperspirants, sponge the area under the arm with 30-1 diluted ammonia.
Perspiration: Silk - Fresh perspiration stains are acidic and washing can dissolve them. Older stains take an alkaline form, and you'll need to sponge the material with diluted white vinegar to remove such stains. For more stubborn discolorations, apply a mixture of tartar, crushed aspirin, and warm water to the sector. Wait for thirty minutes, and then rinse the area with warm water.
In order to retain the smoothness of the silk and its sheen, stop from doing the following things:
- Do not apply any Butyl chemical without testing it on the hidden seam allowance in the beginning.
- Avoid using chlorinated laundry products and solutions, as they affect silk fibers.
- Do not apply concentrated ammonia. In order to guard the shade of your silk, increase the proportion of water in any ammonia solution.
Friday, November 11, 2011
Thursday, November 10, 2011